An intrinsic element of every surfer’s knowledge set should be understanding rip currents. This is because they are both dangerous and convenient for a surfer.
What Is A Rip Current?
Essentially, a rip current or rip is a narrow current of water that rushes from the shoreline to deep water. It is a river that transfers water back to the ocean from the shoreline.
A wave moves towards the beach, but the water needs to move back to the sea once the wave energy is expended. So it is transferred in a current known as a rip.
There are several different kinds of rips, but for now, it is almost like a river flowing out between the sandbars. They can be extremely fierce and powerful, and surfers and ocean goers must understand their dynamics.
How To Spot A Rip Current
This takes a little while and a bit of experience. Still, once you have seen one and understand the dynamics of a rip current, it will be elementary to spot in the future.
The most discernable factor is that the water will be a different color. Mostly, it will be darker, as the rip is way deeper than the surrounding water, quickly transferring large volumes of water back to sea.
In that deep water, there will often be no waves breaking. Waves break in shallow water when the ocean floor slows the bottom of the wave down, and the top overtakes it. When the water is deep, as in a rip, the waves do not slow down, so they often don’t break in the rip itself.
Often the rip current will take sand and other debris with it and expel this at the backline. So there might be a sandy patch beyond the waves, where the rip current slows down and drops the sand it has picked up.
Why Are Rip Currents Dangerous For Swimmers?
This takes a little while and a bit of experience. Still, once you have seen one and understand the dynamics of a rip current, it will be elementary to spot in the future.
The most discernable factor is that the water will be a different color. Mostly, it will be darker, as the rip is way deeper than the surrounding water, quickly transferring large volumes of water back to sea.
In that deep water, there will often be no waves breaking. Waves break in shallow water when the ocean floor slows the bottom of the wave down, and the top overtakes it. When the water is deep, as in a rip, the waves do not slow down, so they often don’t break in the rip itself.
Often the rip will take sand and other debris with it and expel this at the backline. So there might be a sandy patch beyond the waves, where the rip slows down and drops the sand it has picked up.
How Surfers Use Rip Currents (channels)
Rip currents can often be a surfer’s best friend. A rip indicates a zone where the waves don’t break, so it will make a leisurely paddle out.
A rip is also a fast route to the backline, like a travelator for surfers, and it can gently tug out surfers who want to save their energy for surfing.
A rip current is also a zone where you often see surfers doing rescues with swimmers caught unawares. It’s not a good idea to allow the swimmer onto your board as he or she might panic and send you both under. The easiest way is to get a swimmer to hold onto your leash and drag that person out of the grip of the rip.
